Add writeup of Smith Rock trip from April 2009

Also some general notes on rock-climbing over the last several months.

diff --git a/src/blog/personal.mdwn b/src/blog/personal.mdwn
index 1d8368d8befad893e6ba3230c6336424c6d06b58..80fa8467841863c5ccd06d566a14bef4bc0f9801 100644 (file)
--- a/src/blog/personal.mdwn
+++ b/src/blog/personal.mdwn
@@ -3,4 +3,4 @@
 Here are [[Carl's|index]] most recent personal blog entries. More
 information [[about]] the blog is available.
 
-[[!inline pages="link(tag/family) or link(tag/games) or link(tag/make)"]]
+[[!inline pages="link(tag/climbing) or link(tag/family) or link(tag/games) or link(tag/make)"]]

diff --git a/src/blog/technical.mdwn b/src/blog/technical.mdwn
index 6e498790815a4149c430ba42a3a0bcfc50dc0477..427c342e36e6e72f4d387d02e4fc591111824c7a 100644 (file)
--- a/src/blog/technical.mdwn
+++ b/src/blog/technical.mdwn
@@ -3,4 +3,4 @@
 Here are [[Carl's|index]] most recent technical blog entries. More
 information [[about]] the blog is available.
 
-[[!inline pages="link(tag/cairo) or link(tag/conferences) or link(tag/exa) or link(tag/games) or link(tag/gtk) or link(tag/make) or link(tag/performance) or link(tag/xorg)"]]
+[[!inline pages="link(tag/cairo) or or link(tag/climbing) or link(tag/conferences) or link(tag/exa) or link(tag/games) or link(tag/gtk) or link(tag/make) or link(tag/performance) or link(tag/xorg)"]]

diff --git a/src/rock_climbing.mdwn b/src/rock_climbing.mdwn
new file mode 100644 (file)
index 0000000..c5ead27
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/rock_climbing.mdwn
@@ -0,0 +1,47 @@
+[[!meta title="Rock Climbing"]]
+
+[[!tag climbing]]
+
+[[!img smith_rock_2009_04/carl_on_rappel.jpg size="300x300" class="left"]]
+
+In June of 2008 I started rock climbing at a local gym, and instantly
+got hooked. I still can't fully explain the fascination I have with
+climbing, but it certainly includes an aspect of solving a
+three-dimensional puzzle. When I started, the easiest routes in the
+gym (graded 5.7) were difficult for me, but satisfying.
+
+Within a few months I had already acquired a fair amount of [[gear]],
+and I had the chance to climb outdoors (on toprope) with a good
+friend, (Scott DV), who was rediscovering climbing, (having climbed in
+Idaho years ago). We both found that there is some fine climbing to be
+had in the Portland area. We were just disappointed that we hadn't
+started sooner, because Oregon's wet season soon started interfering
+with outdoor climbing.
+
+I got through the winter months by being lucky enough to find a
+climbing partner, (Scott D), willing to train with me 3 times a week,
+(and helping to motivate me to get up at ridiculously early hours to
+climb before work). We both took technique classes that took our
+climbing up a notch. By the time we were ticking off routes at 5.9, we
+took lead-climbing class and starting leading in the gym in January
+2009.
+
+An unseasonably cold and wet month of March kept us in the gym, where
+we kept at our routine, leading at 5.8/5.9 and toproping at 5.10-
+(with several 5.10+ projects). In April, the sun finally came out and
+we took the first chance we could to get outdoors with a [road trip to
+Smith Rock](smith_rock_2009_04) and some of the best climbing in
+Oregon. Our first experience leading outdoors was very satisfying,
+(and very different than in the gym), with each of us succeeding at
+5.8 leads.
+
+Back at the gym two days later, we decided that if we're going to
+start leading at 5.9, we'd better be working 5.11 in the gym. So we
+started working our first 5.11- project. It was grueling, (and we
+didn't make it through the crux without cheating with some weight on
+the rope), but we did get to the top, and it was a blast.
+
+One of my favorite things about climbing is that the routes are graded
+on an open-ended scale. It's fantastic to know that no matter how much
+I improve there will always be routes ready to punish me and put me
+back in my place.

diff --git a/src/rock_climbing/gear.mdwn b/src/rock_climbing/gear.mdwn
new file mode 100644 (file)
index 0000000..7cfa07f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/rock_climbing/gear.mdwn
@@ -0,0 +1,30 @@
+[[!meta title="Carl's rock climbing gear"]]
+
+Here's a list of some of the [rock-climbing](../) gear I have
+purchased. I'm logging it here so that I can track the age of things
+to know when things should be retired.
+
+ * 2008-06: Men's shoes (5.10 Coyote, red), Women's shoes (Lilac),
+   Kids shoes (Mad Rock Mad Monkey, 3 pair).
+
+ * 2008-06: Men's harness, (Black Diamond, gray), Women's harness
+   (Lilac), Large child's harness (orange with hip belt), Small
+   child's harness (colorful Petzl, over-the-shoulder)
+
+ * 2008-08: Black diamond ATC, auto-locking pear biner (orange), Long
+   lengths of weebing, (dark green and blue), 2 stainless-steel
+   screwlock biners, 4 oval biners
+
+ * 2008-09: 60m, 10mm non-dry rope (Mammut, yellow/blue with center
+   marks). Climbing log:
+
+    * Fall 2008: 2 climbing sessions, (toprope only)
+
+    * 2009-04-18: 1 day of lead-climbing, one small fall (factor .15
+      or so)
+
+ * 2008-09: 8mm cordelette (red), assorted biners, (brown wiregate,
+   2 dark purple screwlock)
+
+ * 2009-01: 8 quickdraws, 2 locking biners, personal anchor system,
+   helmet (Petzl, white)

diff --git a/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04.mdwn b/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04.mdwn
new file mode 100644 (file)
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+++ b/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04.mdwn
@@ -0,0 +1,113 @@
+[[!meta title="Smith Rock, 2009-04-18"]]
+
+[[!tag climbing]]
+
+<center>
+[[!img smith_rock_01.jpg size="300x300"]]
+[[!img group_shot.jpg size="300x300"]]
+[[!img smith_rock_03.jpg size="300x300"]]
+</center>
+
+[[!img approach_02.jpg size="200x200" class="left"]]
+[[!img scott_d_with_stick_clip.jpg size="200x200" class="left"]]
+
+We had a fantastic time on our first [climbing](../) trip to Smith
+Rock. We drove down on Friday and camped at the base of the
+rock. Scott D. was anxious to beat the rush and set an alarm for 5:00
+AM. When that alarm went off it was still quite dark and the
+temperature was just below freezing(!). The thought of ice-cold rock
+on bare hands was enough to keep us in our warm sleeping bags for a
+while longer, but eventually we did bundle up for the approach hike to
+the rock.
+
+We got onto the rock at about the same time the sunshine did, and
+fortunately it warmed the rock very quickly. In fact, by afternoon we
+were desperate for shade to escape the heat. Large temperature swings
+are expected in the desert, of course, (note: next time, remind
+everyone to at least pack some socks). Getting to the rock early did
+work out quite well. We didn't see another climber for over an hour,
+so we had the chance to choose any route we wanted. Later in the day
+the most popular routes had lines long enough to make things feel a
+little bit like Disneyland.
+
+[[!img carl_on_rappel.jpg size="150x200" class="right"]]
+[[!img scott_d_belaying_near_tonka.jpg size="266x200" class="right"]]
+
+Since this was our first time leading outdoors we decided to start
+with the easiest routes we could find in the guidebook, and work up
+gradually. We found some nice beginner routes in the Cinnamon Slab
+area just before the Dihedrals. Everything went great, and we each had
+a successful lead behind us well before the mobs of climbers started
+showing up. We might have stayed more impressed with ourselves if we
+hadn't seen that the next climbers on our first route were parents
+setting up ropes for their 5 and 6-year-old children. Look close in
+the picture and you'll see that just behind Scott's belay stance there
+are a couple of kid-size shoes, and a tonka trunk. Ah well, a little
+humility might even be good for us, I suppose.
+
+Leading on this rock outdoors was very different from anything we had
+done in the gym. The most obvious change is that there's not any tape
+showing exactly where to put your hands and feet. So we all found
+ourselves shopping around for a while at each stance, always looking
+to see if we could find better holds.
+
+And for me, at least, the psychological difference between top-rope
+and lead was much wider outside than in the gym. That might have been
+because these routes were not very steep, so any lead fall would have
+certainly meant a fairly quick swing into some very rough rock. I
+didn't realize how much I was staining, over-gripping, over-thinking
+and neglecting technique until I got onto toprope of a route I had
+just finished leading. Suddenly I was relaxed, comfortable, and moving
+quickly and smoothly on a route that moments before had my leg shaking
+wildly. So I'll definitely need to improve my ability to relax, use
+good technique, and just trust myself.
+
+[[!img scott_d_belaying_with_shades.jpg size="150x200" class="left"]]
+[[!img scott_d_lowering.jpg size="266x200" class="left"]]
+
+We stepped up the difficulty a bit when we moved over to the "Peanut"
+and confirmed the rumors that Smith routes have tough starts. On all
+of our routes in the morning the hardest moves were right at the
+beginning. We were glad that Scott D. brought his stick clip, (in
+spite of being afraid he might feel like a goober carrying around such
+a long pole), so we could get into that first bolt while it was still
+15 feet up and have some ropes protection for the first tricky
+moves. And rather than seeing him as a goober, climbers nearby were
+grateful that Scott was happy to share his stick with them. Have I
+mentioned before at how friendly people seem to be in the climbing
+community? Everyone we met at Smith was very nice, and they didn't
+even make fun of us even though we were obviously beginners, (our gear
+was all obviously unused since it was still so shiny).
+
+[[!img scott_dv_leading_5_gallon_buckets.jpg size="150x200" class="right"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_relaxing_on_buckets.jpg size="150x200" class="right"]]
+
+By the afternoon, we were getting a little tired of knobby face climbs
+on wickedly abrasive rock. We got some variety on the "5 Gallon
+Buckets" route, a ladder of pockets so big you could sit down inside
+most of them. Scott DV was anxious to lead this one and found the
+underclings in the pockets extremely gratifying. Just take at look at
+how confident he his flashing those pearly whites while on lead.
+
+Here's a run down of the six routes we climbed. All three of us
+climbed each one of these with (almost) no falls at all.
+
+ * Night Flight (5.5) Carl, Scott D., and Scott DV. each on lead in turn.
+
+ * Easy Rider (5.6) Scott D. on lead.
+
+ * Lichen It (5.8) Carl on lead.
+
+ * Ginger Snap (5.8) Scott D. on lead.
+
+ * Hop on Pop (5.8) Carl on lead.
+
+ * 5 gallon buckets (5.8) Scott DV. then Scott D. on lead.
+
+Next time we go we'd like to lead some 5.9 routes, (and maybe bring a
+friend to put up some rope for us on some 5.10). One thing we didn't
+find was any terrain steep enough to make us comfortable to take any
+practice falls. I think Scott D. really missed that---sometimes I
+almost wonder if falling is his favorite part in this sport.
+
+See the complete set of [[photos]] from this trip.

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+[[!meta title="Smith Rock, 2009-04-18"]]
+
+All photos from our [trip to Smith Rock](../).
+
+[[!img smith_rock_from_camp_at_dawn.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4218.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4219.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4220.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4221.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4222.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img smith_rock_01.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img smith_rock_02.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img approach_01.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img approach_02.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img Smith_Rock_005.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img Smith_Rock_006.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_d_with_stick_clip.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img smith_rock_03.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_putting_on_shoes.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_on_lead.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img carl_on_lead.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img carl_on_rappel.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_d_at_30_meters.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4231.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img scott_d_belaying_near_tonka.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img scott_d_belaying_with_shades.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_d_lowering.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4230.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_ready_to_climb.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4228.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4225.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4226.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4233.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4234.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4235.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_relaxing_on_buckets.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4239.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img scott_dv_leading_5_gallon_buckets.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4240.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4241.jpg size="150x200"]]
+[[!img stay_calm_fight_back.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4243.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img IMG_4244.jpg size="266x200"]]
+[[!img group_shot.jpg size="266x200"]]
+
+

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diff --git a/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04/smith_rock_from_camp_at_dawn.jpg b/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04/smith_rock_from_camp_at_dawn.jpg
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diff --git a/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04/stay_calm_fight_back.jpg b/src/rock_climbing/smith_rock_2009_04/stay_calm_fight_back.jpg
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diff --git a/src/tag/climbing.mdwn b/src/tag/climbing.mdwn
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+++ b/src/tag/climbing.mdwn
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+[[!inline pages="link(tag/climbing)" show=10]]